1/28/2024 0 Comments Behlen stringed instrument lacquerEach line has some cross over in colors and availability, but for example: Lemon yellow solar lux is exactly the same from both, and are interchangeable.Oh- I did a 62 strat clone a couple of years ago using enduro (now General finishes) water bourne lacquer. As far as hobby vs pro in the lacquer line It is the same product formula in a different label. Mohawk is the industrial size,gallons and 5ers. Hi, Behlen is the consumer friendly line with smaller container size, pints and quarts. Also if you have hvlp Mohawk catalyzed lacquers are ok. Next best is Mcfadden or Sherwin Williams. If you re in California, I'm sorry ! Deft ,watco are not 100% true nitro lacquer. Behlen isn't as hard as some other lacquers, but used in light coats sprays and shades great. A quick wash coat, to reopen the skin of the last coat or 2 you sprayed that is capturing moisture, causing blushing. Instead spray 90% Behlen lacquer thinner 10% lacquer. Behlen rec emends using flow out to help rid blushing-dont use it you'll never get the silicone out of you spray pot. Behlen lacquer is some what humidity sensitive. Vynal sealer is harded than sanding sealer and there fore you use less S.I.L. IS PRE THINNED AND TAKES FOREVER TO BUILD BY ITSELF. What I didn't like was that Behlen recommended using their new vynal sealer in stead of sanding sealer. My pre 2009 experience has always been good and spraying Behlen S. So using it and informing folks how to use it has changed from the 70"s. In California no way it 2.75 voc or less. Depending where you live you may be able to get 6.? voc product. 2009 saw major reformulating for all nitro lacquers in the USA. Ive sold and used Behlen/Mohawk products,so here goes. I really like 3M, but Presta and Turtlewax products also work great.ġ2. Spray numerous light, even, thin coats of clear lacquer.Ĩ. Spray numerous light, even, thin coats of colored lacquer until I get the color I want.ħ. Spray a vinyl sealer, lightly sand back with 220 if neccessarry.Ħ. Spray a vinyl sealer, lightly sand back with 220ĥ. Raise the grain, and sand back lightly with 220.ģ. It is a special formulation that has low Volatile Organic Compounds, which is much nicer on your lungs.Ģ. I have a real preference for Sherwin Williams LOVOC Nitrocellulose Lacquer. They are all quality lacquers, but my preference of the bunch is Sherwin Williams because I can buy it by the gallon for less than half of what the others cost, its dries quickly, it dries hard, and it buffs out to a beatiful luster. You could even include Mohawk in that list in areas where it is available. The big three lacquers that are commonly used by professionals and many hobbyists are Sherwin Williams, Lawrence McFadden, and Behlens. It takes to long to dry and harden, and is very reactive and very prone to imprintation. DEFT, whether you buy it in aerosol or can form, is just too soft and reactive for me. Lacquers that need to be sprayed through equipment:Īerosol laquers contain so many additives for UV protection, flow, thinners, and propellants they really aren't the same as lacquers you buy in a can. There are a lot of nitro lacquers available, such as Personally, I feel if you have to sand between layers of lacquer, you need to practice laying down smoother and more even coats of lacquer before finishing a guitar. But thats not really that important because the end result is the same, and there are lots of ways to get there. I think they include those instructions so that the less experienced will gradually level their finish instead of leveling all at one whack in the end and increasing the possibillity of sanding through. I do not agree with Reranches instructions of sanding between layers. They kinda look like topographical lines on a map. When spraying polyurethane( especially oil base) you sand between coats so that you don't sand down through the layers and reveal what is called witness marks. When spraying a nitrocellulose lacquer finish, there is no need to sand between coats at all unless you have horrendous orange peel or bad runs/drips. Finished like polyurethane will go down in stratified layers. Which creats one homegenous layer basically. Each successive layer will basically meld into the previous layer because the solvents from the new layer will reliquify the previous layers. Nitrocellulose Lacquer is an evaporative finish, which means it never cures, the solvents just evaporate.
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